Update 8/18/22: Front lights

I got the front lighting look I wanted using front combination lights from a Suzuki Samurai. The lens is beveled and I thought the lights looked best with the bevel at the top so I have the lights flipped vertically and swapped to opposite sides. I’ll use LED bulbs for better output. I ordered another set of Hella 7″ reflector housings to install at the inboard headlight locations. I installed a new quick ratio power steering rack. The ‘refurbished’ rack I got from eBay for mockup was sprayed black (including the used tie rod boots) but there was little evidence … Continue reading Update 8/18/22: Front lights

Update 8/14/22

I found a solution which allows me to mount 7″ headlights that are better suited for the period and styling of the car. The problem I was having is that most 7″ headlight housing are actually larger than 7″ in diameter due to the front side adjusting screws and retaining ring tabs, but the opening in the Lancia body is only about 7.25″—not enough room to mount standard 7″ headlight housings. I initially used LED headlights that have a rear-mountable housing but they didn’t look right (bottom picture). Also, I seriously doubt their DOT rating because the beam pattern is … Continue reading Update 8/14/22

Update 8/7/22

The pedal ratio for the throttle is much better but the cable movement felt a little gritty, with a high initial break-away torque at the pedal. This was still contributing to some difficulty with the off idle throttle modulation. The original throttle body position required four tight 90 degree turns to pull down on the throttle body crank (top picture). I was able to clock the throttle body 90 degrees (bottom picture) allowing me to use fewer, more gradual bends in the cable routing. The operation of the throttle is now very smooth and the cable moves freely. I need … Continue reading Update 8/7/22

Update 8/5/22

The car weighs 2,370 lbs without driver. I’ll add a little weight when I install felt carpeting and outfit the doors, but I’m also considering removing the excess sound deadening from the floor and center console area, only leaving the rear firewall fully covered. The new front control arms helped low speed straight line stability but the steering is a little heavier—probably the limit of what is tolerable if I left it with manual steering—and it may get worse with newer, stickier tires. I’ll add a few mm’s of toe in to help with stability before driving the car any … Continue reading Update 8/5/22

Update 8/3/22

More driving video at the bottom. The car idles much better and doesn’t stall as often. The engine is torquey but falls off at higher rpms. I need to activate the VVT and intake flaps because that should help top end power. But off-idle power is very good and the car is very light. When I get a chance I’ll run the car through the scales at the local transfer station to get the total weight but I’m hoping around 2500lbs with driver. I added a crosswise stiffening rib to the front hood panel by using a pipe insulation sleeve … Continue reading Update 8/3/22

Update 8/1/22

I fixed the squeaking/chirping sound from the serpentine belt. After installing a new tensioner and idler and still having the squeak, I ordered a 1/2″ shorter belt and that fixed it. I covered the intake side of the airbox with reflective tape where it’s near the exhaust and installed the oiled K&N filter. The front tire has a bad leak and drops below 10 psi in <24 hours. My tire choices in a 17″ rim are somewhat limited with the 315 rears. I’d like to get Nitto NT01 tires but the fronts are sold out everywhere. Available options in a … Continue reading Update 8/1/22

Update 7/21/22

I confirmed the squeaking pulley is something in the serpentine belt system and not related to the timing belt. Neither the idler nor tensioner pulley feel like they have a bearing problem but I’m replacing the cheapo tensioner because that seems the more likely culprit. I installed the rear facing airbox and K&N filter. It cut the intake tubing length by about 75% but more importantly it moves the intake away from the driver’s head. I’ll wrap the lower half of the airbox with reflective foil tape but it’s at least 4″ from the center muffler so it should be … Continue reading Update 7/21/22

Update 7/17/22

The motor mount and throttle body changes were both big successes. The throttle is MUCH easier to modulate and there is almost no vibration through the new motor mounts. I might want to tweak the throttle body bell crank size but drivability is more affected by the poor idle so I need to fix that first. The clutch pedal is very light and doesn’t have much feel, so it’s still difficult to feather it at the engagement point but before I get a bigger clutch master cylinder, I need to make the car idle better because it often stalls when … Continue reading Update 7/17/22

Update 7/14/22

I suspect the reason the throttle is too sensitive and difficult to modulate at low RPMs is that the throttle body I’m using is too large. The symptom is that I have difficulty letting out the clutch from a standstill without either stalling the engine or sending the RPMs too high. When I blip the throttle in neutral only a couple millimeters of pedal travel send the engine to redline. There is a relationship between horsepower and airflow described by the following formula:Air flow (CFM) = (Horsepower × 0.625) × 1.1104 Under the best circumstances my engine will put out … Continue reading Update 7/14/22