Update 7/4/2017

Several months ago I fitted the fiberglass roof panel to the steel body and yesterday I decided to bond the panel in place using a 3M panel adhesive. Using a wire wheel in the angle grinder I removed the paint on the steel roof and cleaned the surface really well using a quick evaporating non-residue thinner. I sanded and cleaned the edges of the fiberglass roof panel before applying adhesive. The front edge of the roof panel has a very narrow contact surface so I wanted to make sure there was a good bond between the steel and the roof … Continue reading Update 7/4/2017

Update 6/30/2017

I was never happy with the 1996 75mm Mustang throttle body. The bolt pattern is extremely close to the OEM Audi throttle body so I over-drilled the holes on the throttle body and just relied on the tension from the mounting bolts to hold the throttle body, the two spacers and all the associated gaskets in alignment. It never felt like a well engineered solution to replacing the drive by wire OEM throttle body. Instead I purchased a 1993 BBK throttle body plus an undrilled Edelbrock spacer/adapter. The bolt pattern on the 1993 throttle body is much larger so I … Continue reading Update 6/30/2017

Update 6/15/2017

I welded several filler pieces into the steel unibody just rear of the doors in the rocker area and applied seam sealer and undercoating. I’ve got several cans of Eastwood rustproof coating that I need to spray into the rockers to prevent any future corrosion. The spray cans have 24″ long flexible nozzles to insert into box sections. I ground down the rear fiberglass body seams where the spoiler is bonded to the main body panel and I also removed some interior reinforcing ribs that were interfering with the body fit on the steel chassis. I’m going to lay up … Continue reading Update 6/15/2017

Update 6/1/17

I assembled the custom axles and installed them in the car. The clearance on the inboard CV is tight as I expected but nothing is rubbing or too close. I moved the suspension through the full range of travel and nothing rubs or is binding in the axles. I bonded the door skins to the steel door using 3m panel adhesive. I attached the rear spoiler to the body section and attached the front grill and lower valence to the front clam shell. I reworked the throttle bracket to reduce the length of the throttle cable and simplify routing. Next … Continue reading Update 6/1/17

Update 8/4/16

I filled the cooling system and ran the engine for about ten minutes to get it up to temperature. The thermostat is working and after the temperature climbed above 160 I could feel that hot water was moving forward through the radiator. There were several leaks from hose clamps that weren’t tight but I didn’t see any leaks coming from the tubes that I welded. There is a substantial leak from the OEM connector at the rear engine coolant crossover pipe. The connector is new but is not sealing well under pressure. I’m going to try a thicker o-ring. The … Continue reading Update 8/4/16

Update 7/26/16

In the picture you can see the throttle bracket, IAC valve, oil separator, etc. The axles arrived from driveshaftshop.com. On first inspection the quality of the machining is awesome. The accuracy in replicating the contour of every spline, snap ring groove and taper is unbelievable. I’m waiting for a set of CV boots before I can assemble them but I feel pretty good that they will work. I still need to modify the throttle return spring attachment because the return speed is a little weak from full throttle. Continue reading Update 7/26/16

Update 7/15/16

I installed the Moroso expansion tank, throttle cable bracket and IAC valve. I modified the Ford IAC valve to accept barb connectors but I haven’t tested the idle since I installed the valve. I’m using a throttle return spring but the pedal doesn’t return as quickly as I would like so I have to rethink the position of the spring. One of the coolant hose connectors was very close to the exhaust and even though the exhaust is wrapped I don’t think the plastic Audi OEM connector would survive the heat so I cut the metal spigot on the Audi … Continue reading Update 7/15/16

Update 6/29/16 – It Runs!

I installed the refurbished injectors and tested them using the TunerStudio diagnostics. I tested fuel pump operation in TunerStudio and checked the fuel system for leaks. According to the pressure gauge, the static fuel pressure is 60lbs which is higher than expected but explains how the undersized injectors are able to produce 300hp. I don’t have the idle air valve installed so I shimmed open the throttle slightly to set a fast idle. With nothing left to check I tried starting the engine. The engine started almost immediately and ran smoothly at about 2000 rpm. I don’t have any water … Continue reading Update 6/29/16 – It Runs!

Update 6/19/16

I welded the O2 bungs into the exhaust and wired up the sensors. I tested the coil and injector wiring and all the wires are correct. All eight coils are able to produce a spark. Four of the injectors did not operate but I traced it down to stuck injectors and not a problem with the wiring. I ordered a set of eight refurbished injectors. I cranked the engine while watching the output signal of the crank sensor. I’m getting a really good signal from the crank sensor. During cranking the oil gauge shows 30 psi of pressure. I ordered … Continue reading Update 6/19/16

Update 6/16/16

I installed the VDO combination oil pressure sensor and low pressure switch. I originally ordered an M10x1 thread pitch sensor but the VDO sensor has an M10 tapered thread where the port in the Audi engine has straight threads for use with a crush water. For example I could use an M10 banjo bolt and line if I need a pressurized oil source off the engine. Instead I ordered an adapter from an M10 straight thread to 1/8 NPT and then ordered a VDO sensor in 1/8 NPT. The resistance range of the sensor is appropriate for my VDO oil … Continue reading Update 6/16/16