I solved the throttle cable problem that resulted from the new throttle body. I made a simple bracket that will allow me to run the throttle cable so it pulls down on the throttle lever. It means a little longer cable with a few turns around the engine but nothing too drastic that should cause the cable to wear out. I’m going to run the new cable tonight. I will grease the cable really well so that it doesn’t wear and to keep the drag down. I still plan to add a second return spring on the throttle arm so … Continue reading Update 8/7/17

In the pictures below I’m fitting the rear quarter panels. I’ve aligned the panels with the door skin and they are fastened temporarily to the body with clecos and to the bottom support bracket with bolts. The bottom support bracket is adjustable which is visible in the third picture. I bought adjustable body braces for the front and rear. One is visible on the front of the car in the bottom picture. The curve of the fiberglass panels is not symmetrical between the right and left sides but the braces push or pull the fiberglass into position. Interestingly I found … Continue reading Update 7/28/17

Several months ago I fitted the fiberglass roof panel to the steel body and yesterday I decided to bond the panel in place using a 3M panel adhesive. Using a wire wheel in the angle grinder I removed the paint on the steel roof and cleaned the surface really well using a quick evaporating non-residue thinner. I sanded and cleaned the edges of the fiberglass roof panel before applying adhesive. The front edge of the roof panel has a very narrow contact surface so I wanted to make sure there was a good bond between the steel and the roof … Continue reading Update 7/4/2017

I was never happy with the 1996 75mm Mustang throttle body. The bolt pattern is extremely close to the OEM Audi throttle body so I over-drilled the holes on the throttle body and just relied on the tension from the mounting bolts to hold the throttle body, the two spacers and all the associated gaskets in alignment. It never felt like a well engineered solution to replacing the drive by wire OEM throttle body. Instead I purchased a 1993 BBK throttle body plus an undrilled Edelbrock spacer/adapter. The bolt pattern on the 1993 throttle body is much larger so I … Continue reading Update 6/30/2017

I welded several filler pieces into the steel unibody just rear of the doors in the rocker area and applied seam sealer and undercoating. I’ve got several cans of Eastwood rustproof coating that I need to spray into the rockers to prevent any future corrosion. The spray cans have 24″ long flexible nozzles to insert into box sections. I ground down the rear fiberglass body seams where the spoiler is bonded to the main body panel and I also removed some interior reinforcing ribs that were interfering with the body fit on the steel chassis. I’m going to lay up … Continue reading Update 6/15/2017

In the picture you can see the throttle bracket, IAC valve, oil separator, etc. The axles arrived from driveshaftshop.com. On first inspection the quality of the machining is awesome. The accuracy in replicating the contour of every spline, snap ring groove and taper is unbelievable. I’m waiting for a set of CV boots before I can assemble them but I feel pretty good that they will work. I still need to modify the throttle return spring attachment because the return speed is a little weak from full throttle. Continue reading Update 7/26/16

I installed the Moroso expansion tank, throttle cable bracket and IAC valve. I modified the Ford IAC valve to accept barb connectors but I haven’t tested the idle since I installed the valve. I’m using a throttle return spring but the pedal doesn’t return as quickly as I would like so I have to rethink the position of the spring. One of the coolant hose connectors was very close to the exhaust and even though the exhaust is wrapped I don’t think the plastic Audi OEM connector would survive the heat so I cut the metal spigot on the Audi … Continue reading Update 7/15/16